Saturday, October 25, 2008

Da Nang and Hoi An, Vietnam

Huong and her conical hat

U.S. barracks in Da Nang

The main street of Hoi An

The covered Japanese bridge in Hoi An

A smile from Hoi An lady (who expected $1 for that smile)

The "modern" kitchen in Hoi An

Young girls embroidering in Hoi An

Huong is a 40-ish year old woman from Da Nang. She was our tour guide for 8.5 hours, yet she shared more than any other guide we have had about herself, her country, and life in general. She arrived at the Mariner dressed in a traditional ao dai (pronounced ow zee), carrying a customary Asian conical hat. Huong said that teachers, high school girls, and many Vietnamese women still wear this dress today. All conical hats contain a poem and river, painted on paper inserted between the two outer layers. It takes four hours to make each hat (ship guests purchased them for $1 U.S.). The conical hats have many uses besides shade while working in the rice fields (women do the majority of the work in the fields). It can also be used as a market basket, drinking cup, rain hat, fan, head warmer, and to hide a shy girl’s face. Huong’s daughters call her a “moving mushroom” when she wears her conical hat. Traditions like these are falling away quickly, she admitted.

One special thing that Huong did for us that nobody else has ever done: she memorized all 35 of our first names and, throughout the day, she’d call us by name whenever we strayed a bit or even just to see if we were paying attention to her! She would often say, “Jerry, photo over here.” Or, “Jerry, take a picture of that.” Amazing! (Jerry is known for his long camera lens and fast shutter clicks wherever we tour.)

Da Nang was much more modern than during our 2002 visit (just like the rest of flourishing Asia). New hotels, apartments, and stores are popping up everywhere in the main section of town. The outskirts are still very poor, but the main roads outside of town are even paved these days.

Rice was being harvested and was drying on tarps and cemented areas in the front of homes. Da Nang served as an important military air and sea base during the 1960’s. China Beach, near the outskirts of town, was used as an R&R for our military personnel. No one was actually on the beaches as our bus drove by yesterday. However, the beaches appear to be undergoing extensive modernization: several new hotels are planned, including a Crowne Plaza that is currently under construction. There are also a few remaining U.S. military hangars and barracks.

Our main destination for the day was the 500-year old merchant city of Hoi An (http://www.hoianoldtown.vn/), where they are still displaying many original one-story buildings. The red painted Japanese covered bridge was built by the Japanese in 1593 to connect their part of the town with the Chinese section. Even on the barely wide enough alleys, we were constantly confronted with speeding motor bikes and bicycles. This town is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

We toured a very old home with a “modern” kitchen which consisted of an outdoor butane burner on the floor. The steamed dumplings cooking for lunch looked and smelled fabulous.

The silk factory featured young girls and ladies, most of whom start working there when they are 8-10 years old. They were doing hand embroidering (you don’t have to attend school if you have a job). Other young girls were weaving straw mats, and spinning silk. Several stages of silk worms were also on display and we could even watch the movement of the cocoons. Wonder of all wonders: we made no silk purchases! On to Saigon.

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