Wednesday, November 5, 2008

Bangkok/Ayutthaya, Thailand

Pavilion at Ban Pa-in Palace

Ho Withun Thasana at Bang Pa-in Palace

Ancient ruins in Ayutthaya

More ruins...

Riding an elephant

Long tail boat about to pick us up for a river ride


Bangkok is a city with two identities: the ancient soul of Thailand with its historic yet romantic history; and modern metropolis that embraces the latest trends and architecture. Our time in Bangkok began with the Regent Mariner docking in Laem Chabang (the port about 2 hours away), and an early morning tour departure…which turned out to be just six people (including the two of us) in an air-conditioned mini van with driver and English speaking guide. We were delighted to learn that we would in the smaller mini-van. The three hour drive to and through Bangkok was shorter and quite comfortable, in the smaller vehicle.

On the trip from Laem Chabang, we learned that Thailand has a population of over 64 million people, with 14 million residing in Bangkok. 95% are Buddhists, 1% Christians, and the remainder a blend of other religions. We were in Thailand at the end of the hottest (and monsoon) season. 70% of the population of Laem Chabang is directly involved with farming. The country exports cars and computers, which they make for foreign companies, and they are the world’s top exporter of rice. Thailand has had 34 kings, the current ruler being King Lama IX. The country has never been colonized by a foreign nation.

By the time we reached Ayutthaya (ah-ee-two-ya), our tour destination for the day, we were indeed ready to get out of that van. Ayutthaya, founded in 1350 A.D., is the ancient capital of Siam (now Thailand), and home to spectacular ruins and temples. Ayutthaya was Siam’s capital for 417 years until 1767 A.D., when it was conquered and destroyed by the Burmese.

The actual tour commenced with a visit to the palatial grounds and buildings of Bang Pa-In, once the summer palace of King Rama IV. It has a mixture of Thai, Chinese and Gothic architecture. The palace is a well-preserved "museum", providing a glimpse into a time when Thailand was known as Siam. We felt transported right into The King and I movie. Even though it is now a museum, it has been maintained and is guarded as if the King and his family still lived there. It was magnificent. We drove ourselves around the grounds in four-passenger golf carts.

After a lovely Thai lunch at the Krungsri River Hotel, we explored some of Ayutthaya’s most famous and interesting ruins. The entire center of this town was declared a UNESCO site in the mid 90s. This honor brings with it much funding for restoration and clearing back to what remains of ancient temples and palaces. If any of you have been there prior to the early 2000s, please return. The ruins are remarkable.

We were about to cross off one of the few remaining items on our “bucket list” as we saw several Asian elephants toting people alongside the ruins. We climbed aboard one of those lumbering animals. Once we were on top of our elephant, the animal’s trainer (who had been working with the same elephant for 20 years) began to ease us down a path alongside a fairly busy street and across to a lake. But, nothing seemed to bother the elephant. Cars passed us, we met oncoming elephants, and even passed through narrow stanchions, not even 2 feet apart, that blocked cars from entering the path. Boon-ag lumbered right on through the narrow passage with his feet one in front of the other as his body spread out over the top of the posts. The only concern we really had with the entire ride was, as the elephant walked along the path, we felt that our chair was going to fall off one side or the other. Once we became accustomed that that tipping motion, it was a very enjoyable ride.

Our next ride was on a long tail boat down the Chao Phraya River alongside homes with children swimming beside women doing their laundry and men fishing for the night’s dinner. We viewed fabulous sites of wats, floating restaurants, temples, and all stages of living accommodations. If we had the time, we could have enjoyed the 172 kilometer ride into Bangkok via long tail boat. These boats are run by old truck or car engines mounted on the back ends.

Cooled and refreshed we began the 2.5 hour ride back via mini-van to the Shangri-La Hotel in Bangkok, where we would spend night. It was a great, but long, day. That night we shared stories with others who had visited the Emerald Buddha, various other palaces, the fabulous Prasart Museum (from a previous visit), and shopped ‘til they dropped. Dinner was pumpkin soup in our room. The following morning we joined Sherri and George Burke for a trip to the largest Jim Thompson store in Bangkok. That store has some of everything that can be made with top quality silk. We did find time to purchase a suitcase for $26 to transport our over-abundance of clothing, souvenirs, and gifts back to Seattle. Next: Singapore, and the end of our 53-day adventure

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